A gorgeous paddle round Cuverville Is and Party on the top deck.

The wind picked up in the morning so we had to leave our camp at around 5:00 am. At around 3 am unbeknownst to me Steve and Gary our leaders had to rescue the Zodiacs as the were being washed sideways onto the rocky shore with one half full of water. They moved them to a more sheltered position.

At 5:00 am someone suggested I get up and I noticed I was one of a couple who hadn’t risen yet ! I was so snug in my cocoon and in a world of dream state. It was snowing lightly, but getting heavier. We roll up our bags, bed rolls and stowing or other gear gear in a dry sack, and say goodbye to our small colony of penguin hosts. We then beat a hasty retreat to ship.

During breakfast we cruise off to the next destination. Breakfast is buffet style with choices of fruit, eggs, bacon, fried potatoes, yoghurt, muesli and so on. I steer well clear of greasy or creamy foods on cruises to ensure a stable stomach with my food quickly digested, so fruit and muesli is my choice. Being an Australian cruise line we also have Vegemite and toast on offer, no one is going to get homesick here.

We anchor at Enterprise island where there is a shipwreck of the Governon. Its history is that it caught on fire in 1921 and the Norwegian captain ran it aground to save lives and the whale oil. In the 1980s some divers discovered the oil and the captain’s jacket. Al and 4 other paddlers went out to get a close up view along with the Zodiacs, unfortunately my stomach was playing up a little and I wanted to avoid an embarrassing incident in the dry suit: dang – I’ve decided not to miss any more trips, it was a good one. I popped some Imodium, visited the loo a couple of times and had no lunch to ensure I was ready for the afternoon. The pictures the others showed were dramatic especially with the continued snow showers. (photo courtesy Ian Cassely)

After lunch, we cruised to Cuverville Island and we paddlers headed out in our vessels whilst the rest of the passengers went out in the Zodiacs. This area was beautiful, we paddled round the part of the island that had a close stretch of water dividing it from its neighbour. The narrow route was adorned with decorative icebergs of all shapes and sizes, many with a glowing turquoise light on their undersides.

Our friends, the penguins go about their business on the shore line as we paddle by.

I really am glad I took kayaking as an option, for me it is a better experience than being seated with ten others on the Zodiacs. Kayaking gets us up close in our own path and timing giving us the change to drift with our own thoughts.

Apparently this is only the entrée, the main course is yet to come.

I have a greedy appetite and cannot wait for more ! The cooks are quite accommodating with my needs: I have a preference for non fatty or creamy foods, so a cream sauce would be changed to a tomato one, fish instead of lamb or sausages; or I’d go vegetarian.

Down in the lecture room our damp sleeping gear is drying. I suggested that those who didn’t camp could have a slumber party in this for the après campers.

At night some of us ventured up to the uppermost deck to view the Lemaire channel and enjoy the chilly outdoors. Unfortunately this famed scenic channel was shrouded in fog and snow and it was bitterly cold. But we few hardy adventurers were not daunted, we were well protected with our ‘polar jackets’ provided by Aurora and a warming dose of the aqua vita. Let’s begin the party, but first: a snow man had to be made.

Do not ask me how I managed to execute a jump for joy on a snow laden slippery deck, but I did without calamity.

We dance and celebrate the good times;

until the staff on the bridge decided that the tap music was too hard to bear and Gary politely informs us that there now a curfew.

The night-time scenery is exquisite with its almost light, almost dark glow adding drama to the snow clad cliffs on the shores.

Cointreau on Antarctic snow and ice, what better a nightcap ? My fingers stung with the incredible sudden cold when the drink was poured – but who is to care after a sup or two takes away the pain ? Cheers !